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	<title>Corvette</title>
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	<description>My 1988 Corvette</description>
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		<title>Rear Wheel Bearings Installation</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/rear-wheel-bearings-installation/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/rear-wheel-bearings-installation/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Jun 2010 00:06:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tech Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[installtion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rear wheel bearings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tip]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=663</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[1988 Corvette Rear Wheel Bearing replacement –
I got the information from several posts on the the Corvette Forum  http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance-48/?id=48  ,  from 101 Projects for the Corvette by Richard Newton  and from a friend, Rod, who has done the job himself.(Rod&#8217;s comments in italics)
There are plenty of warnings on the Corvette Forum NOT to buy cheap Chinese [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>1988 Corvette Rear Wheel Bearing replacement –</strong></p>
<p>I got the information from several posts on the the Corvette Forum  <a href="http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance-48/?id=48">http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance-48/?id=48</a>  ,  from 101 Projects for the Corvette by Richard Newton  and from a friend, Rod, who has done the job himself.(<em>Rod&#8217;s comments in italics)</em></p>
<p>There are plenty of warnings on the Corvette Forum NOT to buy cheap Chinese bearings.</p>
<p>I bought the bearings from Corvette Recycling  <a href="http://www.corvetterecycling.com/">http://www.corvetterecycling.com/</a> in 2009 for us$356</p>
<p>Each side has a steel, teflon coated washer which is important to prevent noises. I found them at Corvette Central, us$35 inc shipping.</p>
<p>Here are my notes to Steve the owner/mechanic at Advanced Automotive Cairns, who looks after my vette really well -</p>
<p>Hi Steve,</p>
<p>Have supplied two new washers (see diagram) these are very important and stop a click noise – they must go the right way round and should fit flush with the hub- note how the old ones are fitted. Please use plenty of anti seize grease on splines and washers.</p>
<p>Some people remove the halfshaft, some leave it in place and get at the torx bolts with a 6&#8243; or 12&#8243; extension- The torx bolts need to be clean and if stuck can be heated carefully.</p>
<p>Taking shaft out makes access easier but more work. Problem is torx bolts are often frozen in and you have a problem getting the right leverage around the shaft.  Spray with WD40 before. Make sure torx bolt heads clean first so no slip.</p>
<p><strong>Note:</strong> Steve left the halfshaft in place, but says he needed several extensions to get access and he used a NEW torx bit.</p>
<p>Make sure you wire brush the splines on the yoke clean</p>
<p><strong>PROCEDURE:</strong></p>
<p>1 Remove ABS sensor to prevent damage</p>
<p>2 Undo 2 bolts holding caliper to knuckle ( spindle / upright / whatever you want to call it )  and tie caliper assembly out of the way.</p>
<p>3 remove brake rotor</p>
<p>4 remove cotter pin (36mm) and washer from brake assembly<br />
Hub nut is 36mm; <em>should be tight , very f&#8217;ing tight</em>.</p>
<p>5 Mark half shaft so it can be replaced same position</p>
<p>6 Remove UJ straps and drop half shaft<br />
<em>Don&#8217;t always work like that. Shaft will not necessarily drop out without removing other suspension parts ( bottom chamber arm ) so knuckle can be levered out to gain clearance room for uni cap to clear side yoke</em></p>
<p>7. Undo three 55mm torx bolts that hold bearing in</p>
<p>Refit<br />
1 Tighten torx bolts to 66ftlbs</p>
<p>2 Fit new thin Teflon coated washers on splined area of half shaft<br />
Must fit up flush to the inside. If there is a gap they are on backwards<br />
Put a little grease on both sides. Washers should fit directly against the bearing</p>
<p>3 Install halfshaft, leave caps off</p>
<p>4 Place calliper bracket and bearing on rear spindle- lube splines with anti seize grease</p>
<p>5 Install spindle washer and nut</p>
<p>6 Tighten nut to 185-192 Ft/Lbs &#8211; get it tight on car and finish when wheels on ground</p>
<p>7 Replace nut retainer and fit</p>
<p>8 Replace brake rotor</p>
<p>9 Install calliper</p>
<p>10 Install abs sensor new cotter pin</p>
<p>Split View Diagram &#8211; Teflon Washer arrowed- (<strong>NOTE </strong>Main nut Torque setting incorrect here)</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-667" title="diagram" src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/diagram-600x800.jpg" alt="diagram" width="600" height="800" /></p>
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		<title>Charters Towers 2010</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/motoring-trips/charters-towers-2010/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/motoring-trips/charters-towers-2010/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jun 2010 02:40:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Motoring Trips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Charters Towers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[corvette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[motoring]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reidy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stingray]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trip]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=647</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In June 2010 I drove the Corvette down to the Charters Towers long weekend carshow &#8211; a distance of about 481 kilometres (300 miles).

My old sailing mate Reidy was visiting from NSW and he shared the driving. I spent a day cleaning,  polishing and getting ready for the trip, including checking the engine over for [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In June 2010 I drove the Corvette down to the Charters Towers long weekend carshow &#8211; a distance of about 481 kilometres (300 miles).</p>
<p><a href="http://s609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/?action=view&amp;current=06062009018.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/06062009018.jpg" border="0" alt="Charters Towers" /></a></p>
<p>My old sailing mate Reidy was visiting from NSW and he shared the driving. I spent a day cleaning,  polishing and getting ready for the trip, including checking the engine over for loose connections and possible problems.</p>
<p>We left Cairns just before 9am Friday morning. Bob&#8217;s Falcon Wagon with most of our gear was in the lead with Ross, his brother in law and Bruce in the wagon because both their Camaro&#8217;s are being restored. Bob drove roofless the 7 hrs to Charters Towers in his 76 Stingray, and we were at the rear in my 88 C4 Corvette.</p>
<p>We had a sedate 2 hr drive to Cardwell where we stopped. I was busting for a pee and as I limped painfully to the toilet block at the servo, many body parts aching and my bladder full, I saw there was a cleaners sign barring the mens toilets- Oh NO!!!! Luckily the cleaner saw my distress and let me in!!</p>
<p> <img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-670" title="PA262092" src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/PA262092-600x448.jpg" alt="PA262092" width="600" height="448" /></p>
<p>Reidy was semi reluctant to drive because he was afraid to damage the vette. He is a fast motorbike rider but a careful bloke, I had no worries at all letting him drive. I got him in the drivers seat, put my hand over the hood and slowly moved it forwards, telling him to say stop when he thought I was at the front- he stopped me short by about 600mm !!! as expected. It&#8217;s always a good idea to know where the front of the car is and with that sorted, he drove two hours to Townsville.</p>
<p>I found it extremely comfortable in the passenger side, more leg room and not having to concentrate. We played a few CD&#8217;s and time went by quickly. Soon we were at the BP fuel depo Southside of Townsville. We had some food there, hamburger and chips etc, refueled and continued the journey to Charters Towers. The outback road had some big B Double trucks plus caravans and cars with trailers going to the show. We arrived about 4.30pm and signed into the motel.</p>
<p>We&#8217;d driven through a light shower and the vette was dirty so we gave it a quick shampoo while Bob waxed his car. We had a few beers then walked into town about 6.30pm to get some food. We couldn&#8217;t find any pubs that had people eating in them, which is our way of finding out where the good food is - the place was fairly dead for a Friday night. We ended up at a Chinese Restaurant run by Chinese people. Food was only average, grog expensive. It was v warm in there and v cold outside when we walked back to the Motel, the stars shining brightly in this old outback mining town. Bob, Bruce &amp; Ross had the room next to us in the motel and we had a few more beers and lots of laughs, standing outisde, next to our Corvettes, then watched the footy replay on Foxtel TV before going to sleep.</p>
<p>Saturday morning we drove to the showgrounds and had breakfast at 8.30am. I didn&#8217;t enter the competition, just happy to be part of the club display. Many of the American Car Club committee have caravans and stay at the showgrounds on the spot where we display &#8211; they get use of the toilet block, water and electricity at real bargain prices, it looks like a good thing. What I reckon is funny is that some of them have huge American cars but tiny caravans!! They had a good display planned and we helped to set it up &#8211; my vette at the front with hood up.</p>
<p><a href="http://s609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/?action=view&amp;current=tn_13062010005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/tn_13062010005.jpg" border="0" alt="All American Car Club of Cairns Display" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Also notice the orange footprints we sprayed on the ground. </p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-674" title="tn_13062010(008)" src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/tn_13062010008-600x450.jpg" alt="tn_13062010(008)" width="600" height="450" /></p>
<p> We spent the morning looking at all the cars on display and walking through the swapmeet. I didn&#8217;t realise I had so much valuable old stuff at home, I saw several things at the swapmeet that I have just thrown out!! My right groin began to really hurt and continued to give me trouble all through the weekend whenever standing. I could ease it by sitting and sometimes go a few minutes standing or walking before it hurt again. It turned out to be a hernia.<br />
My damm body needs reconditioning!!</p>
<p>We had a drive through the streets at midday. By then the sky was blue and the weather was perfect. Bob and I had a running gag for the 2 day show because whenever we are together, driving or parked, people always look at his Stingray and not my C4. This time I had a lot of people looking at mine and I kept calling out a viewer report to him, like 3 and none!! meaning 3 around mine and none around his.</p>
<p>Ross Bob &amp; Bruce the 3 center guys with hats -</p>
<p><a href="http://s609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/?action=view&amp;current=tn_BRBetc010014.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/tn_BRBetc010014.jpg" border="0" alt="Mates" /></a></p>
<p>Around 4.30pm we drove back to the motel and had a few beers outside the motel room. Friends from Ingham hadn&#8217;t been able to book our motel this year, so they walked round from their motel to visit us and slowly an impromptu party happened under the stars. Eventually about 20 people were all drinking laughing etc out in the cold night air. The Ingham mob went to book the motel for next year and came back saying there were only 3 or 4 rooms left, so Bob and I swiftly went to re-book our rooms for next years Queens Birthday weekend.</p>
<p>At about 9pm my ears were dropping off with the cold, I&#8217;m used to our hot humid Cairns weather. There were two old bikies with us and both were wearing beanies so I put mine on and stood with them for a while. Bob reckoned I looked like a big tough bugger standing by the bikies with the beany on. He said he looked up and suddenly there were 3 bikies and he wondered who the other bloke was!! hehehe it was me!  We got hungry and ordered Pizzas for about 15 of us &#8211; there was a 90 minute delay!!! In Charters Towers!! By the time it arrived we were all v hungry and there was a Piranha like feeding frenzy to gobble as much Pizza as possible.</p>
<p>Sunday morning we drove back to the show. This was the official judging day of the show and Bob had waxed his vette again the night before, it was so shiny that NOTHING could stick to it!!<br />
Bob&#8217;s Stingray center of pic -</p>
<p><a href="http://s609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/?action=view&amp;current=tn_13062010010.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/tn_13062010010.jpg" border="0" alt="Bob's Vette" /></a></p>
<p>Mid morning a bloke I met on the Aussie Corvette forum, Troppo Vette arrived from Townsville and we had a long chat and looked at each other&#8217;s vette&#8217;s. His white paintwork is very good but he hasn&#8217;t had time yet to clean up the engine bay. He was reluctant to lift the hood &#8211; always a sign hehehe. I could see that it would clean up easily and he liked my chrome rocker covers. I appeared very knowledgeable about matters C4 and gave him some handy info- also to Rob Casper who had his gleaming red 87 parked beside Troppo. It&#8217;s amazing how much knowledge I have picked up in 7 years of vette ownership!! My thanks to everyone who is heping me on my Corvette journey.</p>
<p>At 2pm we drove around the streets again then waited for the presentation at 3.30pm. Our club won the display last year and this year there really was no other displays worth mentioning so I was very surprised when another club won &#8211; hmmm, must send the judges some magnifying glasses- we had 3 helium balloons per car, a tall 5 metre mast with helium balloons and American flag stuff everywhere, every car had a poster saying what happened the year that car was built &#8211; BTW in 1988 Prozac was invented !!</p>
<p> <img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-673" title="tn_12062010(003)" src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/tn_12062010003-600x450.jpg" alt="tn_12062010(003)" width="600" height="450" /></p>
<p> We drove back to the motel, had a few beers then at dusk walked to the RSL club about 2 kms away. The stars in the outback are amazing and reached almost to the horizon on this moonless night.  On the way there John passed us in his Buick Wildcat, then stopped to pick up Bob &amp; Ross who were 20 metres in front of us. Kel &amp; Coral, Bruce &amp; Helen also drove past us in their big American cars while Reidy, Bruce &amp; I continued walking to the RSL. When we got there we heard there was not enough food for everyone, so John&#8217;s Wildcat and Bruce&#8217;s GTO ferried a bunch of us to the Waverley pub where we had thick juicy steaks and a very reasonable price.</p>
<p>A few more drinks back at the Motel and we turned in around midnight. Woke up Monday morning 7.15am, loaded the cars, paid our bill and began the long drive home. Bob decided to keep his roof on and started off in the lead. We had breakfast just north of Townsville at a servo. Half chicken and chips filled a hole &#8211; $7. Reidy took over driving and we left first, a few mins ahead of the others. I plugged the MP3 player into the CD and we listened to an interview with Wayne Bennet among other things.</p>
<p>We refueled at Cardwell and I took over driving back to Cairns. We saw some speed traps but they were all working the north-south side of the road. We arrived home 3.30pm, about 6 hours of driving and 30 mins of breakfasting.</p>
<p>My vette used no oil during the trip. Water temps were too low, we only saw 73-79C most of the time, The radiator shop have put the wrong T stat in because I usually have minimum set at 84C so I will have to change that. Oil pressure was 63psi at 1900 revs which is good.</p>
<p>As always it was the people who made the weekend &#8211; Bob, Ross, Bruce, the Ingham Crowd, the American Car club etc. Having my old mate Reidy along was a bonus, we&#8217;ve sailed thousands of miles together and had a ton of laughs along the way. He&#8217;s a retired aircraft engineer and has restored old jags as well as raced motorbikes so he was interested in everything at the show. I haven&#8217;t seen him for a few years and catching up was great.</p>
<p>My vette got it&#8217;s fair share of attention -</p>
<p><a href="http://s609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/?action=view&amp;current=tn_12062010006.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt178/Stingraynut/Charters%20June%202010/tn_12062010006.jpg" border="0" alt="Rob's vette" /></a></p>
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		<title>2010 Maintenance</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/repairs-servicing/2010-maintenance/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/repairs-servicing/2010-maintenance/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 13 Mar 2010 03:45:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Repairs & Servicing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=626</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This is not just a blog of routine servicing, but also repairs and improvements 

January
New Radiator Hoses from Pontiworld
February
New Nippondenso Airconditioner compressor, dryer and orifice tube. Flushed twice.
New Serpentine Belt
March
Replaced heater and oil cooler hoses.
Replaced power steering hoses. Although they were only 3.5 years old, they were leaking -
 

 
back to top
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;">This is not just a blog of routine servicing, but also repairs and improvements </p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-79" title="engine-bay00083" src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/engine-bay00083-600x448.jpg" alt="engine-bay00083" width="600" height="448" /></p>
<p>January<br />
New Radiator Hoses from Pontiworld</p>
<p>February<br />
New Nippondenso Airconditioner compressor, dryer and orifice tube. Flushed twice.</p>
<p>New Serpentine Belt</p>
<p>March<br />
Replaced heater and oil cooler hoses.<br />
Replaced power steering hoses. Although they were only 3.5 years old, they were leaking -</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-633" title="PS Hose" src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/PS-Hose.jpg" alt="PS Hose" width="510" height="364" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p align="center"><a href="#">back to top</a></p>
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		<title>Windscreen &amp; Weatherstrip</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/windscreenwindshield-weatherstrip-replacement/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/windscreenwindshield-weatherstrip-replacement/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Sep 2009 05:39:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tech Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Add new tag]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[weatherstrip]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[windscreen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[windshield]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=586</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[While my old windscreen was removed, I took the opportunity to have the window frame sandblasted back to bare metal and repainted. Then I painted over the new black paint with Xtroll, a heavy duty rust preventative and converter which appears similar to the US POR15. 

It set hard in a few hours and made [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>While my old windscreen was removed, I took the opportunity to have the window frame sandblasted back to bare metal and repainted. Then I painted over the new black paint with Xtroll, a heavy duty rust preventative and converter which appears similar to the US POR15. </p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/black-side.jpg" alt="black-side" title="black-side" width="600" height="450" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-593" /></p>
<p>It set hard in a few hours and made the black paint look very shiny. I think it will be an excellent rust preventer because it is a thick semi hard coat and the drips were very hard to remove (with Kerosene).</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/black-top.jpg" alt="black-top" title="black-top" width="600" height="497" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-594" /></p>
<p>I had many replies to my post on the Corvette forum about which weatherstip glue to use for the weatherstrip. <a href="http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance/2321212-weatherstripping-glue-or-not-glue.html"> </p>
<p>The concensus was NOT to glue the weatherstrip. I was surprised, but it makes sense &#8211; the side touching the door or hatch can&#8217;t be glued and is still watertight, so why does the other side have to be glued. The advantage is that the weatherstrip can be easily removed at any time without damage.</p>
<p>Once the frame was ready I cleaned up the two metal strips that run along the sides and top. The underneath piece is also the black trim around the windscreen and the top metal piece is a track for the weatherstrip. They are held on with about 4 Torx head self tappers each side and about 6 along the top.</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/right-track.jpg" alt="right-track" title="right-track" width="600" height="406" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-595" /></p>
<p>While I had decided not to glue the weatherstrip, I could see there were two possible points of entry for water<br />
1. Between glass and the black metal trim which I think this is called the &#8216;reveal&#8217;<br />
2 Between weathertrip and topside of the black metal trim.</p>
<p>I could glue the whole thing with sikaflex and probably guarantee no leaks but would probably never be able to remove the trim without a lot of damage if I had to replace the windscreen again.<br />
The trims are discontinued so I don&#8217;t think this was a good option. </p>
<p>Any glue of lesser quality than sikaflex would let water through in time.</p>
<p>If I used No Glue, at least the water would drain away quickly!!</p>
<p>I decided to use a thin bead of butylmastic, (5 year guarantee- so I guess it will let go in time) between the metal trim and the glass.<br />
I&#8217;m hoping that this will stop or slow down water entry.</p>
<p>Theoretically because the butyl mastic stays soft in the centre, it will make it easier to remove the metal trims without damage. </p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/left-track.jpg" alt="left-track" title="left-track" width="600" height="346" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-596" /></p>
<p>I soaked all the screws in lanolin and sprayed them with lanolin after inserting.</p>
<p>I stuck 2mm foam under the metal strips where they touch the metal frame, as a second barrier to water ingress at this first layer.</p>
<p>Weatherproofing of the second layer is all up to the rubber weatherstrip.</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/top-track.jpg" alt="top-track" title="top-track" width="600" height="450" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-599" /></p>
<p>I put some butyl mastic on the two top corners where they leave the side track and go to top track, otherwise it wasn&#8217;t glued except for the bottoms which apparently need a drop of glue. I managed to get new Christmas tree plastic plugs (6 needed) from Repco.</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/top-cnr-glue.jpg" alt="top-cnr-glue" title="top-cnr-glue" width="600" height="509" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-601" /></p>
<p>From posts I&#8217;ve read, there was some possibility that the roof wouldn&#8217;t go back on because the new weatherstrip might be too firm, same as the doors being hard to close when the weatherstrip is new. Apparently there is an adjustment under the upper plastic trim, but mine went on with no problem.</p>
<p>After I spent hours cleaning the old tracks, I read that carby cleaner does the job really well, leaving the original paint intact.</p>
<p>I greased up the new weatherstrip with Hydro Seal Silicone O ring grease and it went back into the track easily, starting from one top corner. One thing i should have done was mask the glass because the weatherstrip flopped about on it while i was fitting it, and the greasse was extremely difficult to remove from the glass &#8211; but I am assured now how well it will stay on the rubber! </p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Seat Lower</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/projects/seat-lower/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/projects/seat-lower/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 May 2009 02:50:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[corvette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seats]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=555</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a long back which is very stiff through injury and even with the power seat at it&#8217;s lowest position, I have some trouble sqeezing into the vette. Once in the seat, my head is very close to the roof and I have to hunch down a bit, so a few years ago I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a long back which is very stiff through injury and even with the power seat at it&#8217;s lowest position, I have some trouble sqeezing into the vette. Once in the seat, my head is very close to the roof and I have to hunch down a bit, so a few years ago I added some wire to lengthen the two inner seat springs on the drivers side seat and also removed some foam from the seat.</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/springp6283409-600x319.jpg" alt="springp6283409" title="springp6283409" width="600" height="319" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-556" /></p>
<p>This was a big improvement, but I soon noticed the reclining mechanism sticking into my side. i replaced the power reclining system with a shorter manual one and that fixed that problem. I also began to notice a hard ledge towards the front of the seat. This wasn&#8217;t too uncomfortable at first but I realised it was preventing me from sitting a little bit lower.</p>
<p>The hard ledge was the raised part of the seat that holds the front retainer to the seat springs. </p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/p6283394-600x450.jpg" alt="p6283394" title="p6283394" width="600" height="450" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-557" /></p>
<p>So I cut it out !</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/p6283398-600x450.jpg" alt="p6283398" title="p6283398" width="600" height="450" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-558" /></p>
<p>The seat is made of plastic with some metal embedded at key areas around the edge. the part I cut out was all plastic, and I used the cutting wheel on a dremel</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/p6283396-600x450.jpg" alt="p6283396" title="p6283396" width="600" height="450" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-559" /></p>
<p>The part I cut out looks like it was contributing to the rigidity of the seat base, so I fabricated some 6mm aluminium flat bar to replace it, but mounted further forward. </p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/p6283401-600x450.jpg" alt="p6283401" title="p6283401" width="600" height="450" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-560" /></p>
<p>One end bolts through into the seat track, the other bolts through a spare hole. looks like the seats have two sets of holes so they can be mounted as left or right seats. </p>
<p>I used some fencing wire temporarily to hold the front of the seat wires in place. The seat feels more comfortable and I have possibly gained another 10 mm headroom. Now my head only justs hits the roof as I squeeze into the car. </p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/p6283408-600x450.jpg" alt="p6283408" title="p6283408" width="600" height="450" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-561" /></p>
<p>When I have used the seat for a while I&#8217;ll replace the fencing wire with some stainless steel wire.</p>
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		<title>Airconditioning</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/airconditioning/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/airconditioning/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Apr 2009 01:10:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tech Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[1988]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[air-conditioning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aircon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[corvette]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=511</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Aircon &#8211; some interesting facts 
I live in the tropics so the aircon is very important, I now have constant vent temps of 6.6C to 7.7C while outside road temps show 33C , I’ve learnt a few things while making my aircon efficient,&#160; here’s what I’ve discovered. 
My vette was converted to Right Hand Drive [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Aircon &#8211; some interesting facts</strong><b> </b></p>
<p>I live in the tropics so the aircon is very important, I now have constant vent temps of 6.6C to 7.7C while outside road temps show 33C , I’ve learnt a few things while making my aircon efficient,&#160; here’s what I’ve discovered. </p>
<p>My vette was converted to Right Hand Drive and at the same time to R134 gas . It has the C68 climate control. </p>
<p>The first thing I did to maximise the efficiency of the aircon was to disconnect the heater hoses. I have never needed the heater in Cairns.</p>
<p>I was disappointed with the airflow from the blower &#8211; I fitted a new blower and it drew less amps than the old blower, but the airflow was EXACTLY the same &#8211; about half what’s needed. I have heard that newer Japanese blowers move more air but haven’t found a suitable one yet. Auto electricians tell me I’m looking for more speed, which makes sense. </p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/blower3.jpg" alt="blower3" title="blower3" width="200" height="192" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-514" /></p>
<p>I took the dash apart &#8211; found a beer bottle top, half blocking a disconnected air vent tube, and a few other problems like that. All legacies from the RH Drive conversion. The Air box is moved from RH to LH side during the conversion and also inverted. I cleaned out the evaporator because when new, they have a sheet of foam in front of them and this melts/deteriorates over time, especially in hot climates. I fixed several air leaks from poorly sealed joins etc. </p>
<p>I fitted a dual digital thermometer, from Dick Smith Electronics, so I could measure the centre vent temperature and the cabin temps – and get an accurate view of what was happening. </p>
<p>There is an adjustable inline screw, beside the evaporator box, that sets the low pressure going into the evaporator. In my attempts to get colder air, I turned it down very low, (anticlockwise,1/2 turn) but the evaporator iced up. The signs were the vent temps going from a nice 9 or 10C and rising to past 22C &#8211; always fixable by leaving the fan on and turning A/C off so it could thaw out. I turned it the other way (1/2 turn clockwise) and the vent temps were not cold enough- 12 &#8211; 13C, and still the evaporator eventually iced up, sometimes after an hours driving. </p>
<p>I also found that when the car was parked and hot, upon restarting, hot air would blow from the vent until the car was moving – the inline coolant fan switch was not working – it should turn the coolant fan on when the aircon is turned on, so that air flows across the accumulator, in front of the radiator. I fitted a manual switch to turn the fan on and this solved that problem until I replaced the switch.</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/fanon.jpg" alt="fanon" title="fanon" width="500" height="375" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-515" /></p>
<p>Arrow points to the switch which is in the gas line running along between the radiator and the front of the engine and </p>
<p>I had the gas checked to make sure the pressure was correct.</p>
<p>The aircon box is in two halves and I found some major leaks on the engine side of the firewall, where the aircon box joins had split open. I also found two oblong section air tubes under the dash, venting air into the dash cavity – if they were a bit longer, that air might have reached the foot well, but the size of the pipe was too extravagant for the amount of moving air. First priority, for me, is to blow cool air on chest and face – then onto feet. So I partially blocked them –I also found the heater door was not completely closed. </p>
<p>After I sealed these significant air leaks, the blower on ‘full’ was now giving maybe 7 out of 10 airflow. I then discovered that this had cured the frozen evaporator problem and stopped it icing up. </p>
<p>By this stage I saw the incredible vent temps of between 6.6 and 7.7C, and no icing up of the evaporator. Aircon mechanics are happy to set the vent temps at 10C so this is a significant achievement. I can only assume that fixing the air leaks and closing the heater door increased the airflow through the evaporator.</p>
<p>When the vette has been parked in the sun, it takes over 30 minutes to cool it down, because the fan doesn’t shift enough air, so I’m still on the lookout for a better fan</p>
<p>Two other things I have discovered are – if the blower only blows full speed, an inline fuse, under the hood, near the bulkhead has blown – I replaced mine with a 15 amp fuse and have had no further trouble. </p>
<p>One day the blower was stuck on, even with the ignition key out &#8211; the blower module had failed. </p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/hvaccontrol1-600x450.jpg" alt="hvaccontrol1" title="hvaccontrol1" width="600" height="450" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-518" /></p>
<p>
On LH drive cars, the module is on top of the aircon box, so on RH drive cars it’s on the bottom and not so easy to replace, with the chassis close underneath it.</p>
<p>This is the view when laying on the ground looking up at it!!!</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/p1010006-600x448.jpg" alt="p1010006" title="p1010006" width="600" height="448" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-516" /></p>
<p> I got some great help from the Corvette Forum, including two NSW Aussie vette owners – rodj and Aussie Vet .</p>
</p>
<p>I’d like to say a very special THANK-YOU to the Corvette GURU on airconditioning, whose username on the Corvette Forum is SunCR. Many many thanks Bill, for your hours of help as we&#8217;ve worked through my aircon system .</p>
<p>To sum up – check the gas pressure. Clean the evaporator which probably is clogged with foam that has deteriorated over time, make sure the radiator fan comes on when the aircon is turned on. Make sure the heater door closes properly- that’s VERY IMPORTANT. Look for air leaks. Have the adjustable screw correctly adjusted.</p>
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		<title>Clean Engine Trick</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/engine-cleaning-trick/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/engine-cleaning-trick/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Apr 2009 04:01:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tech Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[1988]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[armor all]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[clean]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[corvette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[engine]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=482</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When I first got my Corvette in 2003, the engine was very dirty.

I did my best to clean it with degreaser and brushes first. I was very unhappy with the result &#8211; the black plastic parts looked faded and seemed to have a transparent skin that was peeling off in places &#8211; it looked bad.
 I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When I first got my Corvette in 2003, the engine was very dirty.</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-545" title="mvc-008s" src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/mvc-008s-600x450.jpg" alt="mvc-008s" width="600" height="450" /></p>
<p>I did my best to clean it with degreaser and brushes first. I was very unhappy with the result &#8211; the black plastic parts looked faded and seemed to have a transparent skin that was peeling off in places &#8211; it looked bad.</p>
<p> I heard about this way of regaining the black on faded parts on the Corvette Forum, this involves spraying a warm engine with Armourall Tyre Spray.</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-604" title="Armor All Tyre Foam" src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/Armor-All-Tyre-Foam.jpg" alt="Armor All Tyre Foam" width="132" height="400" /></p>
<p> A few people said it worked so I did a small test area. It made the plastic go black and shiny and it look so much better. I sprayed everywhere in the engine bay including inside the hood. It made a huge difference and lasts and lasts &#8211; I&#8217;ve never seen anything revert to the grey white powdery look &#8211; I was amazed at how good and easily it fixed everything.</p>
<p>After Using Armor All -</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-548" title="clean-engine10007" src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/clean-engine10007-600x449.jpg" alt="clean-engine10007" width="600" height="449" /></p>
<p>Note: As part of the original cleaning up of the engine and maintenance, I also replaced the Rocker covers and shockabsorbers, painted the exhaust manifolds etc. Note the vaccum booster, the AIR diverter box, the inlet manifold hose, top of radiator -  after the spray they came up like new!</p>
<p>I was concerned that everywhere would turn into a gooey sticky mess but that&#8217;s not the case &#8211; I now spray the wheel wells, under the bonnet &#8211; everywhere &#8211; remember not to spray on Serpentine belt as it&#8217;s slippery.</p>
<p>UPDATE &#8211; I&#8217;ve been sprucing up the engine compartment with Armorall for a few years now. I can definitely say it does not harm anything, there&#8217;s no noticeable build up, it&#8217;s not sticky or attracts dust. It&#8217;s just a fantastically easy way to keep the engine looking good.</p>
<p>Instructions -<br />
Wash engine for the first time application and get everything as clean as you can, spray onto a warm engine close the hood and wait 20 minutes &#8211; TOO EASY &#8211; they&#8217;re bound to make it illegal !!</p>
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		<title>2009 Maintenance</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/repairs-servicing/2009-repairs-and-servicing/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/repairs-servicing/2009-repairs-and-servicing/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 06:05:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Repairs & Servicing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[1988]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[corvette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nexen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[repair]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rob healey]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[service]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=319</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[New Nexen Tyres, new Starter Motor and Brake Master Cylinder]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p align="center">2009</p>
<p>Fitted new reduction style starter motor from late model C4&#8217;s &#8211; much lighter, easier on the battery and leaves more room for header exhaust pipes.</p>
<p>Fitted new Brake Master Cylinder, with brake bias spring.</p>
<p>Fitted four new Nexen tyres 275&#215;40xZR17</p>
<p align="center"><object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" width="425" height="344" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/DEj8hyX3-GU&amp;hl=en&amp;fs=1" /><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="344" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/DEj8hyX3-GU&amp;hl=en&amp;fs=1" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always"></embed></object></p>
<p>Fitted New rear Disc Pads</p>
<p>New oil and oil filter</p>
<p>All four wheels aligned</p>
<p>Cleaned handbrake lever that was gunked up and fitted New Handbrake cable</p>
<p>New windscreen, frame blasted to bare metal and re sealed. New weatherstrip. New wiper blades. Windscreen coated with rainX.  <a href="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/windscreenwindshield-weatherstrip-replacement/">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/windscreenwindshield-weatherstrip-replacement/</a></p>
<p align="center"><a href="#">back to top</a></p>
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		<title>2008 Maintenance</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/repairs-servicing/2008-repairs-servicing/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/repairs-servicing/2008-repairs-servicing/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Dec 2008 06:00:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Repairs & Servicing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[1988]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[corvette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[repair]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rob healey]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[service]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shock absorber]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[UJ]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=317</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[New UJ's, New Altenator and Rear Shock Absorbers]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify">2008</p>
<p style="text-align: justify">May &#8211; replaced front disc pads with Brembo ones,(FM-1000m 0412). The EBC pads were hardly worn, but they only worked when extremely hot and were very poor when cold. The Bembro&#8217;s made a big difference.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify">
<p style="text-align: justify">July &#8211; Replaced all six universal joints. Although 5 of the old UJ&#8217;s looked OK, there was a noticeable difference with the new ones, and the car felt better, tighter.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify">Fitted new Monroe Sensatrac rear shock absorbers. I spent some time at the <a href="http://corvetteforum.com/"><span style="color: #669966">Corvette Forum</span></a>, researching a good but soft shock absorber. The advice I got was excellent. Will upgrade the front shock absorbers too.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify">New Polyurethane rear suspension, well greased.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify">August &#8211; Fitted new waterpump, Flow Kooler 1688 from <a href="http://www.summitracing.com/"><span style="color: #669966">Summit Racing</span></a>- 30% more flow up to 3500rpm.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify">Replaced the rear MAF relay because the warning light came on, this instantly fixed the problem.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify">Fitted quick fill fuel cap and two small louvres in tops of doors.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify">Fitted new Bosch style Altenator</p>
<p style="text-align: justify">Fitted New Internal Electric Fuel Pump.  I foiund a Holden one that was identical including the plug. Hi Pressure in tank for VN VS Commodore 6-8cyl. Repco # FPE-250A </p>
<p align="center"><a href="#">back to top</a></p>
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		<title>UJ Replacement</title>
		<link>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/uj-replacement/</link>
		<comments>http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-tips/uj-replacement/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Nov 2008 05:24:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tech Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[C Beam]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[corvette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[repair]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[UJ]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/?p=463</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[How to replace UJ&#8217;s WITHOUT removing C Beam
The factory service manual states that the C Beam must be removed to replace the universal joints on the propellor shaft. Some members of the Corvette Forum said that this was true, BUT a few said it was possible to do it and NOT disturb the C Beam [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p align="center">How to replace UJ&#8217;s WITHOUT removing C Beam</p>
<p>The factory service manual states that the C Beam must be removed to replace the universal joints on the propellor shaft. Some members of the Corvette Forum said that this was true, BUT a few said it was possible to do it and <strong>NOT</strong> disturb the C Beam &#8211; possibly this only applies to Auto trans like mine?</p>
<p>After some research I got confirmation from forum member rodj and some clear instructions on how to do this. The advantages of not removing the C beam is that it reduces the time of the job, possibly by a few hours! and there is no chance that the C beam will not be put back properly, nuts not tight enough etc because it is a well known PITA to work with due to lack of room &#8211; it has to be wrangled in and out and also very hard to get at the front nuts which are above the beam.</p>
<p><img src="http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/wp-content/uploads/c-beam.jpg" alt="c-beam" title="c-beam" width="600" height="625" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-480" /></p>
<p>The first part of this info concentrates on the prop shaft UJ&#8217;s, and then scorp508 has given permission for me to host his excellent write up on replacing the halfshaft UJ&#8217;s</p>
<p>Below is a copy of my write up for the mechanic who did the job for me, and after that scorp508&#8217;s tech tip with photo&#8217;s. The mechanic reported that my FAQ sheet was a huge help to him and confirmed that everything was correct.</p>
<p><b>NOTE – Driveshaft and halfshafts are made from soft aluminium and easily damaged.</b></p>
<p>All nuts/bolts are Metric. </p>
<p>Factory Manual and Haynes Manual supplied</p>
<p>Hood release under LEFT HAND side of dash, </p>
<p>This fact sheet is compiled from info received from other Corvette owners who have done the U/J replacement job themselves and is vouched for by several owners who have followed these or similar instructions. </p>
<p>The manual says to remove the Driveline Support Beam (C Beam) but this is <b>NOT RECOMMENDED</b> &#8211; all reports say this is a tricky job<b> –</b></p>
<p>“The C beam is a PITA to remove if you have never seen one before. You need small hands to get up side of tunnel and hold open ender on top of beam while undoing bolts underneath.Then you have to get it out which is a work of art in itself. Replacement also involves measuring alignement, R/R just for the C beam can take hours.”</p>
<p>The instructions for Driveshaft removal came from Rod in Sydney who has done the job many times and it can come out in as little as 10 mins. </p>
<p><b>REMOVE DRIVESHAFT FIRST</b> so that brakes can lock diff to allow easy undoing of rear UJ Straps on diff.</p>
<p><b>Mark</b> the drive shaft so you can install it back in the same position to keep the correct balance. </p>
<p><b>DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL –</b></p>
<p>Hoist Car</p>
<p>Drop exhaust </p>
<p>Undo bolts holding uni to diff,&#160; You may need the diff locked in order to crack the strap bolts loose , you can only really work on one bolt at a time and then need to rotate.</p>
<p>Use a long 1/4 drive ext for better access</p>
<p>MANIPULATE DRIVESHAFT OUT –</p>
<p>Driveshaft will&#160; move foward on the trans yoke allowing you to get rear uni&#8217;s caps off the diff yoke. Need trans out of gear and handbrake off so you can rotate yoke to best position to get caps out .</p>
<p>Take rubber hammer, and tap the drive shaft FORWARD into the transmission, angle the drive shaft so its above the handbrake cable that goes horizontally across the car.<br />
  <br />Take the rubber hammer, and tap the drive shaft out of the transmission.</p>
<p>DS will slide back beside diff head over handbrake cable enough for the&#160; yoke to come free from trans.</p>
<p>The handbrake cable can be undone if needed, but I don’t recommend it because it’s 20 years old and may be brittle and break. (It’s made to come apart at the clip about in the middle) </p>
<p>May wish to have a catch pan under the rear of the <b>tailshaft</b> to keep transmission fluid from leaking on your shop floor</p>
<p>DS can then be moved foward to clear handbrake cable and down.</p>
<p>Check rear trans seal while you have DS out , cheap insurance against leaks.</p>
<p>Remove old UJ’s and fit Spicer K5 -13 XRHD</p>
<p>HALFSHAFT UJ&#8217;S</p>
<p>Below is a link to the excellent write up by scorp508, with clear photo&#8217;s for the halfshaft UJ replacement. I found a post by him, after he had done his UJ&#8217;s which showed there was one alteration to the way he showed the removal. Instead of undoing the camber strut at the inbord adjustment end, he undid it at the outer end, which prevents the camber from being altered and saves having a rear wheel alignement.</p>
<p>Click <b><a target="_blank" href="http://www.robhealey.com.au/Corvette/scorp"><br />
<font color="#FF0000">HERE </font></a></b> for a link to scorps write up for the halfshaft UJ&#8217;s. (Opens in a new window)</></p>
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